Bring the chicken stock to a boil and then simmer on a low heat. Then, sauté the onion with the celery in olive oil and simmer for about 4 minutes on a low heat. After which, add the garlic and let it rest for another 1-2 minutes. Increase the temperature and fry the rice vigorously for 2 minutes, then deglaze with the red wine. Boil about half way and then top up with the broth regularly so that the rice is always well covered. Stir regularly to prevent sticking or burning.

Add the soaked mushrooms, the soaking water, and the rosemary, then simmer on a medium flame until the rice is tender. Remove the risotto from the fire and add the parmesan, mascarpone, and butter. Stir and cover everything; keep it as such for at least 3 minutes. Season with salt and pepper.

While waiting, bake the pancetta crisp in a little oil and drain by using kitchen paper. Sprinkle the prepared risotto with crispy bacon and garnish with sprigs of rosemary.

This fits a fresh, colorful salad, crispy ciabatta bread, and a full-bodied Barolo, (but you know that already).

Let's enjoy it, 'Buon Appetito', as they say here in Liguria.